Go out and listen to something…

July 13, 2006

In Vienna

Filed under: Art, travel, Vienna — burnett @ 1:29 am

Where to begin…the Albertina has a very creative exhibit for the 250th Anniv. of Mozart.� I went through it twice, just to make sure I really understood what they were getting at.� It tried to give the big picture of just what was going on in the 1760’s, and requires a few visits.� His visits with his father to the various European capitals:� Florence, Paris, Vienna, London, are nicely framed with quotes from both Leopold and Wolfgang about their experiences.� Not an easy life, and Leopold did an excellent job trying to manage the phenom’s career.�

� Of course I� walked around, checked out Franziskaner Kirche, Maria am Gestade, which dates from 1200 or so, Stefansdom, now a commercial extravaganza, and walked most of my old streets in the first district.� The building where I lived in Riemergasse now has an elevator.� I was in a 6th floor walk-up at the time.� What was then a porn moviehouse next door is now a jazz club called Porgy and Bess.� Go figure.� After an hour of walking these winding little Gassen, it all came back to me how much I loved this city, and why I stayed for so long in the 70’s.� Most of the restaurants still have that stale tobacco smell.� I did not mind it in 1972, but it now gives everything a dated feel, and certainly does nothing to stimulate the appetite.� Speaking of appetite, my host invited me to one of the local Heuriger’s last eve for a viertel of Gemischter Satz, the house specialty white wine, and a Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad.� Absolutely divine, and the tab came to 24 Euros.� We sat out in the garden under the lindens and chestnut trees with dozens of other customers.� Great place.� This is all in the Mauer neighborhood, near Hietzing.

� A highlight was stopping in at Kleines Cafe on Franziskanerplatz.� When I first arrived in Vienna, I hung out there when it was truly a Kleines Cafe: two circular tables in booths and a bar about 8 feet long.� There was a bartender named Hanno, and they served Ottakringer and white or red wine in 1/8th, 1/4 or liter flasks.� It was the hangout for the communes, and many groups would stop by at some point during the night, just to see ‘wer war da’.� It definitely captured the Bohemian side of Vienna, for better and for worse.

No Comments

No comments yet.

RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URI

Sorry, the comment form is closed at this time.

Powered by WordPress